New York Fashion Week’s eight-day Fall 2018 season came to an arresting close with Marc Jacobs’s homage to the ’80s. In the preceding stretch of runway shows, parties, and even concerts, we saw everything from a surprising menswear trend return to a “kinder drag” star make his New York Fashion Week debut.
Here are the things we’ll be thinking of as the shows kick off in London today.
Menswear Got a Shiny, Snappy Update
Satin cargo pants for dudes? At Tom Ford, the designer’s slicked-up gents wore the style with leather jackets and blazers, while Raf Simons showed a similar shape paired with single-button coats and knit dickies. The idea came up at Jeremy Scott and again at Dion Lee. Yep, shiny trousers are going to become a thing in 2018.
Runway Shows Were Upstaged by a Gleeful Concert
After days of white-box runway shows, one hopes for something truly extra. Telfar Clemens delivered on that front with a two-hour-ish Friday night concert featuring about a dozen of his favorite musicians. Their song of choice was “Grateful,” adapted by Ian Isiah, with Dev Hynes on the keys and Kelela, Kelsey Lu, and more sharing vocals. At the end, Telfar himself came out to exclaim, “I’m so grateful to my faithful customers.” Cheers all around.
It’s the ’80s All Over Again
Down goes the stock market and up come the ’80s references. At Tom Ford, over-the-top glitz and animal prints were the predominant themes. Adam Selman was inspired by the era’s airbrushed art, Area offered up patched-together leopard and crystal jackets, and Marc Jacobs closed out the week with nods to Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler, and Emanuel Ungaro. Fabulous as it was, it’s hard to accept the Ivana-ization of fashion at a time when that style of decadence and glamour feels at odds with the climate of political and social discourse.
A “Drag Kid” Becomes a Superstar at Gypsy Sport
Desmond Is Amazing is a self-professed “drag kid.” He might only be 10 years old, but he has already proven himself a runway superstar, thanks to his charming turn at Gypsy Sport. “I was dying, I was so happy,” he told Vogue’s Laura Regensdorf of his first Fashion Week show. We’d say, he killed it.
Shh! The New Millenium’s Models Are Back
It would be hard to top last season’s supermodel reunion at Versace—and perhaps because of the high-wattage moment, few brands tried at New York Fashion Week. Instead, the casting trend that did emerge was much more subtle, with big-name models of the mid-aughts appearing around town. At Sies Marjan, Tasha Tilberg took a turn mid-lineup among new faces and recent stars. Calvin Klein welcomed Freja Beha Erichsen into its fold, partially obscuring her visage with a hand-knit balaclava. Michael Kors slotted Guinevere van Seenus into his show in a beaded slip dress, while Kinga Rajzak appeared at Dion Lee and Colovos’s show. They might not be the Kate’s and Naomi’s of the world, but we’re glad to have them back.
There Were Snacks!
Everybody loves a nosh. The week started off with a Raf Simons bacchanal complete with Belgian waffles, dark chocolate, and red wine. Rosie Assoulin had a crepe station at her presentation, and Gabriela Hearst traded a traditional runway show for a delicious Italian lunch at Café Altro Paradiso. And don’t forget the acres of popcorn at Calvin Klein. A healthy snack? Not exactly, it was underfoot during flu season, but that didn’t stop some of the more adventurous guests from nibbling.
Street Style’s New Stars Keep It in the Family
By now, it’s widely known that the easiest way to make it into a street style roundup is to coordinate outfits with a friend or colleague. The practice has been called twinning, and it’s become de rigueur in New York and Paris. But the surprise stars of this season in New York were actual twins Molly and Reese Blutstein. The Atlanta-based sisters walked the runway at Collina Strada and were snapped both together and apart on the street, proving that real twinning can’t be beat.
A Soulful Swan Song at Carolina Herrera
After 37 years as the creative head of her label, Carolina Herrera is stepping into an ambassadorial role, leaving Wes Gordon in charge of the brand’s creative vision. Her Fall 2018 collection was her last; fittingly, it culminated in a 20-look finale of models dressed in Herrera’s evening uniform of a white shirt and colorful ball skirt. It was a lovely tribute to one of New York’s most consistent—and chic—presences.
The Resistance Took a New Form
Just one year ago, Fashion Week in New York was overwhelmed by acts of political resistance. The CFDA handed out Planned Parenthood buttons, Prabal Gurung sent out dozens of slogan tees, and street stylers pledged their allegiance to Black Lives Matter and Everytown in their wardrobe choices. This season, activism was somewhat more subdued. Gurung continued to be one of the more vocal designers, equipping his models with white roses during the finale, a nod to the Time’s Up protest at the Grammys. The closest other brands came to commenting on our unstable world was the vast fetishization of corporate power tropes—she’s sexy, but she’s also a boss!—and the prevalence of armor-like outerwear to shield women from prying eyes and arms. You can read the political engagement in many ways; here’s one: In the wake of social unrest, being unabashedly, passionately oneself is its own form of resistance, whether that means turning up the sparkle, embracing powerful clashes of color, or continuing to embrace craft and artisanal industries.
Source : https://www.vogue.com/article/new-york-fashion-week-fall-2018-news